First day in Lhasa

After an early morning wander around the barkhor and neighbourhood, we met up with our guide, Dashi (my spelling). Our first task was to communicate to him that we didn’t want to follow the standard action packed day, and would rather just do the jokhang and the potala palace at a more leisurely pace. We found out that it is very hard to communicate with someone who answers yes to everything and nods all the time. But we got our way and we walked over to the Jokhang to join the queues of Tibetan pilgrims and Chinese tourists. Apparently the Tibetans will spend up to two hours every day queuing to pray, spin prayers wheels, top up the yak butter candles (dripping some on the floor to catch out unsuspecting tourists) and give money to the gods/monastery. The train has dramatically increased the influx of tourists, which meant doorways and hallways were like the pictures of the Japanese subway, but with tour guides acting as pushers. But the temple was spectacular, and the view from roof stunning. The endless chapels with representations of various gods and dalai lamas did run together over the three days, the space and decoration in the central study hall were spectacular every time.

Dawn in the Barkhor (which is very late, since the Chinese government isn’t interested in that silly idea of time zones)


Prayer wheels in Jokhang


Roof of the world (or of the Jokhang)


The afternoon was the Potala Palace (c. 1645, but incorporating chapels built in the 600s), actually two palaces – the original white palace which is the parliament, with the red palace on top being built as the dalai lama’s residence. No pilgrimage would be complete without a big climb (at altitude too), up steep, uneven stairs. A total of 13 storeys. We were only allowed in 2 floors near the top, where several of the dalai lama are buried in stupas that illustrate the devotion of the Buddhists and the wealth that Tibet has held. The interior décor and the courtyard were stunning.
After all this it was time for a massage, followed by some evening shopping at dropenling .

So many stairs (Potala Palace)


Yak butter candles – pilgrims can byo, or buy it outside, handily provided in a thermos so it doesn’t solidify before you have finished